Arcade Parts

Arcade Stick



Autor: kowal© Translating: Pap

Modifying Namco Arcade Stick


†††††††††† Namco is not a good box to modify, cause of it small size itís just unstable. However, it is very easy to mod. The box could be a merciful present from the God himself if you are traveling with a laptop and want to play a little. This Arcade Stick is so small that he can fit in almost every bag. Also, it is the third most often modified Arcade Stick, after the HORI Real Arcade Pro and Dreamcast Arcade Stick.

Replacing joystick.

†††††††††† Because of the small size of the Namco Stick box, you must remember that not every joystick will fit in it. If you donít want any problems, JLW, JLF and LS-33 will fit easily. Rest of the Seimitsu models is pure hardcore (you will have to cut both, joystick and the Arcade Stick box). There are some successful modifications with LS-32, but in all those projects the mounting plates (from the joysticks) has been taken off, upper edges of the base were cut a little and the bottom of the joystick was grinded all the way up to the very e-clip molding. The very joystick was mounted by drilling through the box top and making from the top (all alone) a new mounting plate for the joystick. I think itís a little too much work (itís not worth it) and I suggest donít use that LS-32, the same with LS-40. European, American and Korean joystick wonít fit at all!

†††††††††† Letís begin with unscrewing the bottom of the box and unsoldering the buttons from the PCB. You have to do this or else you wonít be able to take off the metal top. If someone just want to change the joystick in the Namco Stick, remember that you will still need to do almost all the same work as if you were changing buttons too. So donít be too ďcheapĒ and change the buttons also (for Godís sake thereís only 6 of them, it wonít cost you a fortune).

†††††††††† After unsoldering and taking out the buttons you can take off the metal top, it is attached with 6 torx screws (you will need a T10 screwdriver). My Namco Stick was a ďveryĒ used one, so I repainted it black and put a new layer of varnish for protection (3 thin layers of black paint and 2 layers of colorless varnish). You can get your metal top powder painted (it gives better results).

†††††††††† The joystick in the Namco Stick is attached with 4 screws. After detaching it you have to get rid of the old moldings in the box which used to mount the original Namco Stick joystick. They will only disturb you when you will be attaching a new joystick.

†††††††††† I have chosen the JLF joystick because I think that this was the joystick that Namco Stick designers wanted to copy in their work. What is interesting is that you can actually exchange the shaft, pivot and actuator from the Namco Stick joystick with these in the JLF. With shorter shaft (from the Namco Stick) the JLF works more dynamic, feels a bit more hard and get back to position better. The throw and engage is lower, this can be very helpful (especially when you are playing on octagonal restrictor).

†††††††††† After assembling the whole joystick you have to cut a little of those 2 denticles from the restrictor key. They stick out too much and block you from screwing up the bottom. They also protected the original actuator from the JLF, but if you use the one from the Namco Stick they will become useless.

†††††††††† If you decide to chose Sanwaís JLF, order the mounting plate-free option (or just detach it). The base of this joystick is equipped with 2 screw holes for mounting. Place the JLF in horizontal or vertical orientation and attach it with 2 screws.

Replacing buttons

†††††††††† Buttons are easy to mount in this box, the holes are big enough for all Japanese Sanwa and Seimitsu products (30mm diameter). Of course you will be able to mount only regular/standard models of the buttons, high-end buttons from the RG or the GXN series wonít fit in (their microswitches are way much to big).

†††††††††† I suggest taking the OBSN30, especially if you want to stay with original interface. Terminals of the Seimitsu microswitches are arranged aslant to each other and you could encounter some problems with soldering them in the PCB. OSBN30 have their terminals arranged parallel to each other and you just have to bend them a little so they will fit in the PCB holes.

Final effect of my modification with Sanwa parts.